Alice Springs- Is it safe?

Female travel through the Australian Outback.

1. The Longing.

‘You can’t go there, you’ll get raped.’

 

‘I wouldn’t do that if I were you.’

 

‘You’d be stupid to go alone.’

 

This is just a small handful of advice given to me when, at 21 years old, I decided to travel through the Australian Outback. Not only is this one of the most remote and scarcely populated areas in the world (its soaring temperatures and aridity making it virtually inhabitable), there is also risk of bush fires, extremely limited resources and thousands of horror stories in accompaniment. Despite this, after 6 months of living in Melbourne, I was getting increasingly tired of the big city life and I couldn’t help but long for an adventure. The red centre was calling my name.

 

Now, you hear such a variety of opinions when wanting to undertake an adventure like this, however my main issue was that as a female solo backpacker I could only find minimal resources or advice online from people like me wishing to explore. The information I found was targeted at grey nomads, couples, road trips (I did not have a car or even know how to drive) it seemed my only option was to take the greyhound bus, and I could not find a single person who had done it.

 

Regardless of this, I continued to research the big-name places like Alice Springs and Coober Pedy. There were so many aspects to these places that I longed to see; the Todd River, the MacDonnell ranges, underground houses, the painted desert; of course I wanted to hike, camp, visit Uluru. I wanted to get out of my comfort zone. These concepts were so foreign and so intriguing to me at the time, I had never visited a country so big or so diverse. The little traveler in me simply longed to get there, I would lay awake at night planning my route and figuring out the logistics in my head, but I was questioning myself whether it was even safe to try.

 

I turned to many Aussies who had lived in this country their entire lives, thinking they would have more of an insight into this seemingly distant world than me. I was searching for encouragement, motivation, travel stories; and to be honest, my morale was dwindling. This dream of exploration was seeming ever more impossible. Work friends, locals who came into my bar, housemates, everyone I knew, I asked, and never did I get a clear or particularly optimistic response.

2. The Doing

I wanted to capture this previous feeling in words, the hopelessness but sheer determination I felt before embarking on this adventure. I was going around in circles in my mind to the point where I was getting sick of my own thoughts, so I simply left a month later. My route started in Adelaide, and I planned to head up north, through the red center, ending in Darwin.

 

I was in complete luck that I met a darling Swiss backpacker in a hostel in Adelaide, who was also looking into doing a trip like this; not only did we share the same sense of adventure, but he also had a car. I felt such a pang of excitement as I realised I might have a buddy to complete this mission with, any hesitancy I previously felt quickly evaporated. Now, not only was I ignited with a newfound confidence, but I had someone to share every moment of this epic endeavor with. 

 

Just two days into the trip it became apparent that the every-day had become an adventure. I loved sleeping in the back of the car, waking up with the sun, living off warm hummus, bread and a bottle of spiced rum, meandering through the never-ending roads of the desert. I could write for hours about our journey, our mishaps, our challenges and all the incredible things we saw, however this isn’t the point of this blog. All I can tell you is that it was utterly insane, hands down one of the best things I have ever done. The memories and conversations shared on this journey will stay with me forever. 

 

Arriving at our half-way point in Alice Springs felt like a dream. I almost had to pinch myself for it to feel real. The sun was setting, and the sky was lit up with pinks and oranges. It was beautiful. It is rumored that you must see the Todd River flow 3 times to fall in love with Alice. The river was bone dry when we crossed it, but I fear in this moment I had already fallen in love. Now this isn’t to say that this town is the land of dreams; of course, it faces its own problems and to come into a town like this, especially as a tourist, it is vital that you are not ignorant and that you’ve done some significant research, particularly into the indigenous communities of all Australia. By learning about and respecting Indigenous cultures, you can gain a deeper understanding of the profound connection between the people and the land, Alice springs is situated in the traditional lands of the Arrernte people and was described to me as a melting pot for when different tribes meet, cross paths, etc. If you have awareness of the culture and follow the main protocols of female travel (like you would in any city) for example, not going out by yourself at night, you’ll be absolutely fine.

 

I am sad to admit that due to my pre-conceived misconceptions, I felt very on edge initially, almost like everyone was out to get me, but fortunately, with experience this feeling deteriorated. Coming open-minded and non-judgmental is the best thing you can possibly do.

 

Alice springs truly has a unique charm; the town often hosts quirky events, for example, when I was there it was the ‘annual beanie festival’ where there were creatives selling- you guessed it- a huge range of knitted beanies. Also, I found the type of travelers staying here tended to have a broader perspective and a genuine respect for the world around them. It is full of open-minded people who push the boundaries of travel and have a real desire for adventure, while remaining well-mannered. I found a lot of people were in the area in order to complete the multi-day trek; The Larapinta trail, which I would love to do one day. If you love hiking and/or unique landscapes, I recommend Alice Springs time and time again.

 

Me and the Swiss backpacker continued to travel together until arriving at Tennant Creek, where inevitably, we had to part ways. I was then on my own, in the middle of one of the most remote parts of the country, was I scared? Not really. Hearing ‘alone in Tennent Creek’ is enough to send most Aussies into a fit, yet I was ecstatic. Not only had I reached the places I thought I’d never be able to, but I had also slept under the stars in the middle of the desert; made campfires and cooked meals on them; hiked to watch many a sunrise and sunset; saw wild camels, emus and wedgetail eagles; filled up at dodgy servos and explored places I never even knew existed; it was a dream come true.

 

That evening I caught the greyhound bus at midnight to get to Darwin, and everything was okay. I will say that these bus journeys are long and tedious as you’re covering such a vast distance, my advice would be to bring plenty of water, snacks, a blanket to get cozy, and choose a seat that is close to the driver, just for that extra level of security if you need it. In my experience, they will look out for you.

3. The Result

Upon completing this journey, I realized that undertaking this as a 21-year-old, solo, female traveler, is absolutely achievable. While I had good company for a large part of the time, it took actually doing it, to realise that I would have been safe even if I were alone; and I never would have met my friend if I didn’t set out by myself in the first instance. That’s what I love about solo travel, you never know who you may meet on the way. Your biggest worry would be potential loneliness from long distances rather than genuine concern for your personal welfare.

 

It is important to note that you must be respectful of Indigenous cultures and practices and take the time to learn about the local heritage. Even better if you can engage with the locals and support aboriginal arts, businesses, etc.

 

While I would recommend listening to people you trust and taking their advice, never let someone who hasn’t visited your place of interest cloud your judgement. They haven’t been, so they don’t know. Let this be the motivation to go and find out for yourself, the best things always result from stepping out of your comfort zone, and if I had listened to all the people that said it wasn’t safe, I would have missed out on having the best time of my life, and my biggest adventure to date.

 

I ended this trip by spending 4 months living and working in the remote town of Kununurra in WA, 831k west of Darwin. This was wholeheartedly the happiest I’ve ever been and bought a whole new plethora of adventures to my doorstep. I met the most amazing people here, and if I were to return anywhere in Australia, it would be this little oasis of a town. If I hadn’t ever left Melbourne, I would have missed out on all of this, so that’s what I personally take away from the experience. You never know what amazing opportunities may occur for you when you step out your comfort zone.

 

Peace and love, Evie.

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4 thoughts on “Alice Springs- Is it safe?”

  1. Great to hear about your experiences in such a candid manner Evie. I’m glad you pushed past your doubts, made the journey and experienced all you did. Well done for leaving your comfort zone, something I believe none of us do frequently enough! I look forward to hearing about many more of your travels in the future.

    1. Thank you so much!! I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed the writing process <3

  2. Legend you’re my biggest inspiration stay wild child always will be my bestest friend 💛💚

  3. Inspiring – as always. Hope this encourages people to explore the places they’ve always wanted to visit. The world’s a big place and there’s always something new to around every corner. Keep being awesome x

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