My favourite place in the world is somewhere no one has ever heard about.
Kununuurra is situated in the North West of Australia, it has a population of around 4,500 people and is a rough 10 hour drive from civilisation (that’s if you can call Darwin civilised). Yes, there are tiny towns in between, but not much to go off really. You can drive for 800km in every direction from this town and still be in the middle of nowhere, unless you head north in which case you may end up at the Timor Sea. It is an utter ball ache to get to, so it is easy to think ‘why bother?’ During peak season this town is busy with travellers completing the lap of Australia or the Gibb River Road, but ultimately, it’s a stop-over destination. Here’s what I found after spending an extended period of time in this little oasis of a town:
Firstly, you must adapt to the unique lifestyle that comes with living in this part of the world. Rather than 4 seasons they have 2; April – October bring crisp dry heat, endless blue skies, and sunshine to die for, while September – May provide torrential rain, thunder, lightning, and suffocating humidity. I remember the feeing of the first rainfall of the season, it was truly magical after months of the relentless aridity, and it was genuinely exciting to be living amongst this change. The town is known to flood, online deliveries won’t arrive in two days, and you don’t have the selection of shops or ‘choice’ that come with living in a big city. There are no traffic lights or road markings in the whole area, its infrastructure is simply based around dirt track.
I see why this can be off putting for most people, however, I whole heartly fell in love with this place. I wouldn’t want to live in Sydney, or Melbourne, or Perth, or Brisbane. I’d want to stay in Kununurra. The endless consumerism of modern-day life isn’t shoved in your face the same way and you have no choice but to be more considered with what you purchase. You have all the space in the world to be free and explore, and there is such a strong connection between the people and the land. The ‘nothing’ that is here, turns out to be everything.
The awe-inspiring landscapes almost conceal the town as it is nestled amongst huge red rocks, baobab trees, vibrant plants and insane waterways that are so desolate in other parts of remote Australia. It feels as if you’re in the desert, yet there’s waterholes, rivers, dams, lakes, waterfalls. This is a result from the juxtaposition of the seasons here and it is utterly beautiful. Aside from the landscape, the main blessing this town has is its community. When living in such unique circumstances you must work with what you’ve got, each other, and that’s what the people of Kununurra do so gracefully. They support each other, they know exactly where to go and who to see if you need a specific item, and they hold events which bring everyone together; locals and tourists alike. In the 4 months I was there we had rodeos, horse races, the agricultural show, food festivals and fishing competitions. There is even a little market on in the town centre every Saturday morning.
Despite all these factors, my favourite most part is how many opportunities there are to get outside. This applies to the whole Kimberly region. There is so much to do in the surrounding areas- amazing places for camping and hiking, and if you get off the beaten track, you’ll almost certainly have the place to yourself.
Things to do in the town:
Mirima National Park – just a short walk or 2 minute drive out of town you reach the captivating mini-bungles with a variety of walking tracks.
Kellys Knob – hike at sunset for a gorgeous view overlooking the town.
Swim Beach – take a dip in the croc free (?) beach area, one of the only places safe in town to hang by the river.
Elephant Rock – admire from afar or tackle a steep scramble to the top for a sunrise.
Kangaroo Haven – visit Mandy and her wildlife rescue centre. She does an amazing job at rescuing and rehabilitating native animals; she has released over 800 roos’ and wallabies back into the wild.
Pump House – grab a bite to eat and some delicious cocktails as you look over the river. It isn’t unheard of to spot crocs swimming beneath the deck.
Scenic flights – take the scenic route to the Bungle Bungles or Lake Argyle, the information centre in town has all the information you will need.
Things to do in the surrounds:
Ivanhoe crossing – an insane river crossing that you can drive through in the dry season. It also holds great Barra catching opportunities.
El Questro – has camping and resort options in the midst of beautiful landscapes.
Emma Gorge – a 40 minuet hike will lead you to one of the best wild swimming destinations in the area; swim through the gorge and underneath the waterfall.
Zebedee Springs/ Molly Springs/ Black rock falls – unlike Emma Gorge these spots can get dried out come the end of dry season but are still worth visiting for an adventure, majority of the year they are great places to take a dip and cool off.
Lake Argyle – classified an an inland sea this is Western Australias largest reservoir, you can take river cruises or explore the surrounds by foot.
Wildlife spotting – crocs, snakes, birds, lizards; while it’s not everyone’s cup of tea this area is home to some of Australia’s’ most unique animals.
Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles)
Emma Gorge.
Kangaroo Haven.
Beehive Domes in Purnululu National Park.
Lake Argyle.
Echidna Gorge in Purnululu National Park.
Ivanhoe Crossing.
It is worth mentioning that there is now only one hostel in the entirety of the town, and it was such a huge factor to my positive experience. Now, don’t get me wrong this hostel is dirty and could do with a lot more love put into it, but overall, the grounds and outdoor space is lovely and the people staying here are equally nice. Each person comes from a different corner of the world; Europe, South America, The Pacific Islands, I could go on; each bringing their own culture to the hostel creating this unique combination of customs in the middle of remote Australia. We would all finish work and return to our ‘home’ to cook dinner and socialise. At the weekends we would usually do one of the above activities, find a local event, or crack down and find bush doof for the night, which weren’t uncommon. The friends I made here I laughed with, cried with, sang with and were who I turned to when I needed advice, they really were like family. There is a quote I found before I started travelling that said, ‘there are so many places you haven’t been yet where you’re going to belong’, and this is how Kununurra felt for me. I truly felt I belonged. A lot of my life I have struggled to find my people and to ‘fit in’ with my surroundings, but here, I felt I could just be myself and that was enough.
In conclusion, I have travelled to a fair few places; 22 countries and every state in Australia (other than Tassie, my apologies) and I will always have a soft spot for Kununurra. Maybe because it was so unexpected, or maybe it was simply up my street. There is so much to do from road trips, day trips or just heading down to the pub on a Friday night. Some people love rural living and others may not, all I know is that it was a privilege I got to experience this town, when 2 weeks prior to my arrival, I didn’t even know it existed.
Peace and love, Evie.
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